Porsche 914 Technical Guide
Four to Six: What It Takes to Build a Proper 914-6 Conversion
The broad mechanical, structural, cooling, fuel, electrical, and chassis work involved in converting a Porsche 914-4 to six-cylinder power.
For Porsche enthusiasts, the 914 is a unique chapter in the company’s history. Born from a joint venture between Volkswagen and Porsche, the mid-engine platform was praised for its superb, balanced handling. However, the standard Volkswagen-derived Type 4 flat-four engine left many drivers wanting more. Enter the factory 914-6. With a 2.0-liter flat-six borrowed from the previous year’s 911T, the factory six-cylinder car turned the chassis into a genuine sports car icon. Because only 3,351 factory 914-6 models, including the M471 and GTs, were built between 1970 and 1972, acquiring a genuine “-6” is a rare and expensive proposition.
Fortunately, Porsche engineered the 914 chassis with the capacity to accept the larger six-cylinder engine. Converting a 914-4 into a 914-6 is one of the most rewarding mechanical transformations an owner can undertake. Relying on classic documentation and decades of collective wisdom, this article outlines the broad mechanical, structural, and electrical steps required to swap a flat-six into a four-cylinder chassis.
Planning and Engine Selection
Before turning a single wrench, you must select your powerplant. While a factory 914-6 used a 2.0L Type 901/36 engine, builders today use everything from early 2.0L engines to 3.6L engines from later 911s.
Your choice dictates the complexity of the conversion:
- Early engines, 2.0L to 2.7L: Often carbureted with Weber 40 IDA or PMO carburetors, these engines match the vintage aesthetic and require less complex electrical wiring.
- Later engines, 3.0L to 3.6L: These offer substantial power increases but bring additional weight, electronic fuel injection or Bosch Motronic wiring, and higher torque demands that will test the transmission and chassis.
Preparing the Chassis and Welded Engine MountsThe factory four-cylinder engine is secured by a perimeter engine-hanger bracket mounted to two suspension consoles on the sides of the engine bay. The 914-6, by contrast, uses a central engine-mount crossmember welded directly to the firewall bulkhead.
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The Dry-Sump Oil System and Auxiliary Cooling
Unlike the wet-sump Type 4 engine, Porsche flat-six engines use a dry-sump lubrication system that requires an external oil tank. Managing this plumbing and providing adequate thermal control can be the most labor-intensive part of the swap.
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Tank and Primary Plumbing: Chassis PreparationThe oil tank sits in the driver’s-side inner fender well, forward of the rear wheel. The 914 chassis has pre-stamped impressions in the sheet metal that indicate where the factory cutouts belong. Using a hole punch, carefully cut the openings for the oil lines, oil-filter console, and oil-filler neck. You will also need to drill the mounting holes for the two M8 × 20 mounting studs. Matching dimples appear on the sidewall sheet metal. |
Tank Installation and Oil Lines
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The Front Auxiliary Oil-Cooler SystemBecause most 914 six-cylinder engine transplants produce more than 160 hp, an auxiliary front oil cooler is a necessary safeguard. A stock factory 2.0L may survive on the standard engine-mounted cooler alone, but performance builds and swaps using 2.4L to 3.6L engines can overheat quickly without front cooling. An effective auxiliary cooling setup combines three elements: an external thermostat, protected chassis plumbing, and a front-mounted oil cooler. With engine rebuilds commonly costing $25,000 to $30,000, cooling is not the place to cut corners. Avoid mounting the cooler under the trunk floor. The factory placed the 914-6/GT cooler up front because that location works. |
The Thermostat: Preventing Thermal ShockYou cannot simply route oil directly from the engine to the front of the car. Without a thermostat, the engine would take far too long to reach its proper operating temperature, increasing wear on the bearings and piston rings. A high-flow external thermostat, such as a factory Porsche 911 unit, a Mocal thermostat, or a modern billet inline unit, should be integrated near the oil-tank loop. The thermostat acts as a gatekeeper:
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Oil-Line Routing Along the Rocker PanelTwo long lines, one supply and one return, must carry oil to and from the front bumper. Builders generally use one of two methods:
Safety note: Use caution when routing oil lines through the passenger cabin. A ruptured line carrying 180°F oil is a serious hazard. Keep the lines against the longitudinals, clear of jack points and moving suspension components, and use a 916-style cover where they enter the cabin. |
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Protect the core: Install wire mesh or a stone guard over the cooling fins. Highway rocks can puncture an unprotected core, drain the dry-sump system, and destroy the engine. |
Mounting the Front Oil CoolerFor the actual cooler location, PMB recommends a factory GT-style front-valance installation. The cooler mounts horizontally behind a cutout in the lower steel front valance. PMB Performance offers a copy of the factory 908-style cooler designed to fit Getty Design and similar fiberglass shrouds. Shop PMB's factory 908-style cooler here Welding one-inch square tubing across the suspension points and covering the area with thicker-gauge sheet metal also creates a much stiffer front end. |
Benefits: Retains roughly 75% of the front-trunk space, follows a factory-authentic layout, improves cooling, creates effective inlet and outlet pressure zones, and stiffens the front end.
Tradeoffs: The cost can be higher than a home-built setup. The improved cooling may also leave you with an excessive amount of free time to obsess over parts of the build other than oil temperature.
Sheet Metal, Engine Tin, and Exhaust
A flat-six engine requires controlled airflow across its finned cylinders. The original four-cylinder engine tin will not seal the engine compartment.
- Install six-cylinder engine tin: A five-piece 914-6 engine sheet-metal kit seals the engine perimeter against the chassis walls, separating hot exhaust air below from cool intake air above. An incomplete seal allows the cooling fan to recirculate hot air and can cause overheating.
- Address the rain tray and engine lid: The factory 914-4 uses a plastic rain tray beneath the engine-lid mesh. On a six-cylinder conversion with carburetors or tall intake runners, the tray interferes with the air cleaners and must be removed. A quality factory 911 or 914-6 air-cleaner assembly handles wet-weather duty.
- Use 914-6-specific exhaust components: Standard 911 headers do not fit a 914 because of the rear suspension-console configuration and transmission layout. Use 914-6-specific headers or heat exchangers. The exhaust terminates in a 914-6-specific muffler that exits through the left side of the rear valance.
Actual factory-style 914-6 mufflers are difficult to source from current aftermarket suppliers. Plan on cutting and repositioning the outlet tip so it aligns with the valance. Original metal 914-6 rear valances are also rare. Fiberglass replacements are available for a factory-style appearance, but they commonly require fitting and finishing work.
Fuel Delivery and Mechanical Linkages
The fuel system requires major changes when moving from the electronic fuel injection of a 914-4 to the fueling needs of a flat-six.
- Fuel pump and pressure: Carbureted engines cannot use the high-pressure pump from the Bosch D-Jetronic or L-Jetronic four-cylinder system, which operates at roughly 30 PSI or more. Replace it with a low-pressure, high-volume pump operating at approximately 3.5 to 4.0 PSI. This is one of our favorite 3.5-4 PSI pumps. For safety and reduced vapor-lock risk, mount the new pump beneath the front fuel tank rather than in the engine bay. PMB uses the later 1975–1976-style fuel-pump cover and mount remanufactured with Restoration Design before its builds go to paint.
- Throttle linkage: The four-cylinder throttle-cable pull differs from the six-cylinder arrangement. Carburetors or electronic fuel injection require a 914-6-style bellcrank linkage on the side of the transmission intermediate plate. A bolt-on throttle bellcrank kit can adapt the factory four-cylinder pedal assembly to operate the six-cylinder linkage smoothly.
Electrical and Wiring IntegrationWiring a carbureted 914-6 conversion can be relatively straightforward because it requires only limited additions to the factory 14-pin engine-harness plug.
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Drivetrain, Suspension, and BrakesInstalling the engine is only part of a proper 914-6 conversion. The transmission, suspension, and brakes must also handle the added torque, weight, and speed.
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Bringing the Porsche 914-6 Conversion Together
Converting a 914-4 to a 914-6 is a meticulous project that transforms an excellent vintage momentum car into an aggressive, visceral sports car. A methodical approach to the engine mount, dry-sump plumbing, engine cooling, drivetrain, and braking can produce a reliable machine that honors Porsche’s engineering philosophy.
For detailed plumbing schematics, wiring diagrams, component guidance, and help keeping the project on track toward its first drive, contact the knowledgeable team at PMB Performance.






